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April 24, 2013 In all my time in Sicily, I’ve never ever seen a uomo (person of the male persuasion) anywhere near a laundry line. Are clotheslines unmanly? It’s always women hanging over balconies, stringing up the sheets. Thank you, ladies, for the sweet smiles and lovely show.
Now, gentlemen, I’d like to see a few of you out and about with clothes pins in hand. *** Read about my first attempt to hang laundry in Sicily here. *** Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.
March 28, 2013 A fever is sweeping the land. A sweeping fever. A scrubbing fever. I am feverish, too. I emptied out all my drawers. Strewed stuff over the kitchen floor. Got overwhelmed. Grabbed my camera and shut the door on the mess. I’d rather wander about and watch Sicilians clean. I found Lena, sweeping her head off. Much too busy to have more than a few words with me.
March 14, 2013 Yay! It stopped raining for five minutes! Let’s hang out the sheets!
February 18, 2013 I believe this about breakfast: you absolutely must eat a healthy one. The breakfast I eat in Sicily goes against everything I hold true. I ingest a big fat brioche (brioscia) oozing with chocolate or pistachio paste, snowy with powdered sugar. Along with a sugary shot of caffeine. But the guilt I feel is only a passing blip on the radar of my emotions before Euphoria sets in. Does my lack of shame stem from the fact that everyone else on the island is doing it, too?
And then haul myself back up like some kind of alpinist?
*** February 9, 2013 As we tooled around Sicily this week, a theme emerged: scary sights. Spotted in the Ballaro market in Palermo: goat heads. What is the home cook to do with these? Are they meant for lunch, or…?
Wikipedia says, “In Sicilian witchcraft it is customary to leave a fish head on the door step of one’s enemy to ward off malicious intention. The practice dates back to at least 1308, when Dante referenced it in his epic, the Divine Comedy. In a more serious feud, escalation of hostilities can be signaled by the appearance of a goat head or horse head.” Below was the Dantesque vision that greeted us as we entered Mazara del Vallo. I can’t say for sure what it is.
And in the Mazara fish market, the catch of the day was a creature the size of a very large pizza, with eyes instead of olives, and a laughing mouth.
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