Death by Sugar in Sicily

December 26, 2011

Sicily tries to kill you with sugar, and Christmas Day is no exception.

Everyone was walking the streets yesterday morning smooching and shouting “Auguri!”  And juggling a cake or two. Sicilian Man Carrying Christmas Cake, copyright Jann Huizenga

These are no ordinary cakes. They’re saccharine clouds pasted together with cinnamon-ricotta goo, doused with cognac or rum, laced with teeth-achingly sweet marzipan, and topped with pistachio nuts, berries, chocolate or a blood-rush of sugary icing and spirals of candied orange, lemon, and citron.

Dig in for a glucose overdose, and don’t blame me if you gain a few kilos:

Christmas Cake in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Christmas Cassata in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Christmas Cake in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Sicilian Christmas Cake, copyright Jann Huizenga

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What’s in those Hat Boxes?

December 18, 2010

My first Christmas in Sicily. Things are low-key and I’m lovin’ it. The bar has dangled a few nonchalant stars; the barista wears a red tie . The (horse) butcher has lined his doorway with a handful of twinkle-lights. Poinsettias redden the piazza.

Things at the supermercato have reached a fever pitch, though. Christmas cakes in hat boxes—piled high on skids everywhere you look—teeter alarmingly, threatening to bury you alive under mounds of butter and lard. Friends tell me Sicilians start gobbling the cakes (called panettone or pan d’oro) at the end of November. By Christmas, they’re so bloated they can’t look at a hat box.

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Which one to get?

Christmas Pan d'Oro in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Chocolate with orange nibs? Laced with Grand Marnier? Cointreau? Nuts? Truffles? A Mister Chocolate?

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

How about a cake with a bottle of bubbly enclosed? My head spins.

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, Copyright Jann Huizenga

I finally close my eyes and point. I pick the classic—a spongey-eggy poof studded with oranges and raisins (OK, I’m boring). Wish I were sharing this monster with you!!

Christmas Panettone in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

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