Mother and Child, Sicily

July 5, 2014

They were strolling hand-in-hand down the street like extras in some Sicilian film. They stepped into the tabacchaio and when they emerged, I went in pursuit. How was it that I’d never seen them before, in this dinky place of 2500 people?

Sicilian Mom & Son, Copyright Jann Huizenga

Concetta handed me her card. Turns out she runs a restaurant called U Saracenu,  in the heart of Ragusa Ibla. I haven’t eaten there since those days when my house was a kitchen-less mess.  The place seemed then like a throwback to a much earlier era, and when I popped in today, nothing in the decor had changed. The previous owner, built like a fridge, used to tell me exactly what I wanted to eat.

“I’d love a big salad, please.”

“Oh no. This no weather for salad. You need hearty fare in this rain.”

And he’d lumber from the kitchen balancing a steamy bowl of minestrone, or ricotta ravioli doused in ragú.

But he has retired, and the chef (Concetta’s hubby) and Concetta are now the proud owners, serving the same old-style, no-nonsense, no-pretense Sicilian fare at prices you’ll like.

***

Inside U Saracenu, Ragusa Ibla, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

The front room is the lightest room and you sit next to an old feed trough; the restaurant is a former animal stall.

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

U Saracenu, Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Translated, the name means “At the Saracen’s Place”–referring to the Arabs or Moors who ruled Sicily for a couple hundred years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chef at U Saracenu, Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Chef Angelo Gelasio

 

 

 

 

 

Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

Find me on Facebook.

My photography website.

 

 

Cooking in A Convent, Sicily

June 21, 2014

Happy summer!

My buddy Roberta and I welcomed the season with a luscious summertime lunch whipped up by the chefs-in-training at the Nosco Cooking School at Antico Convento Ibla in Ragusa Ibla. Talk about “Farm to Table” fresh! The chefs were out in the school’s garden picking our lunch a mere 30 minutes before we scarfed it down. Their assignment was to find something in the garden that inspired their creative fancy.

Chefs at the Nosco Cooking School in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

The squash blossoms were out in full glory. (Can you guess what ended up in one of the dishes?)

Nosco Cooking School, copyright Jann Huizenga

This chef threatened to stab me if I didn’t stop taking his picture.

Nosco Cooking School, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

The wizard behind the magic is Peppe Barone, below, a chef who has inspired and trained many top chefs in Southeast Sicily. (He also owns the restaurant Fattoria delle Torri in Modica.) You can watch him on TV here.Peppe Barone of the Nosco School, copyright Jann Huizenga

An illicit aside:

Right under that rock wall is a deep black hole. Peppe explains: “It is the tunnel that the monks dug. It leads all the way to the nunnery.” He was not kidding. (The convent and nunnery were vacated sometime in the 1950s.)

_MG_5060

Goodies in hand, the chefs traipse back to the kitchen and get to work.

Nosco School of Cooking, Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

Steam steam steam. Chop chop chop.

_MG_4990

Roberta and I went down to the dining room in high anticipation, studying the skulls, scrolls, and other frescoes, wondering why there were no more monks. Is gastronomy the new religion?

_MG_4936

Frescoes at the Nasco Cooking School in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

And then the moment arrived. We were poured a local bubbly rose.  And then these marvels–and many others–were placed before us, like benedictions.

_MG_5023

Eggplant and tomato torte

_MG_5121

Tomato pasta with local cheese–and do you see it?–the squash blossom! Stuffed with mozzarella and deep fried.

_MG_5123

Pasta with great big green leaves picked in the garden. That’s all I know. Divine.

_MG_5125

Pasta with a leek, onion & potato broth. Shoestring potato garnish.

_MG_5132

A “convent cannolo” with sweet ricotta cream. Cute and amazing taste.

A big GRAZIE!!!!! Chef Peppe, to you and all your fine sous chefs!

***

The Nosco Cooking School at Antico Convento Ibla can arrange custom cooking classes for you  You’d need to find nine friends, to make a minimum group of ten. Or visit Ristorante Cenobio to taste the student chefs’ creations. The convent is at the back of the Ibla Gardens.

 

My Sicilian Village: Now and Then

March 4, 2014

Here’s my beloved Piazza Duomo, with the church of San Giorgio perched atop a high staircase, her chest puffed out, proud and lovely. The piazza is our salon–it is here that we celebrate, gossip, soak in the sun, raise a glass of wine, listen to the clamor of the bells.

Piazza Duomo, Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

And now a shot from days gone by. It’s from an old postcard–shot maybe 50-60 years ago? The clock appears to have been in working order back then, but other than that not too much has changed, thank goodness.

Old Postcard of Piazza Duomo, Ragusa Ibla

***

Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

Find me on Facebook.

My photography website.

One Evening in December, Sicily

December 19, 2013

Stars burn. Leaves whisper. The village is waiting for Natale, waiting for 2013 to run out.

You can sometimes catch a glimpse of a Christmas tree behind shutters. Boxes of panettone crowd out everything else in mini-markets. Poinsettias shimmer red on the piazza. But otherwise, no hoopla in the village. Just a quiet wait.

Ragusa Ibla Gardens at Christmas, copyright Jann Huizenga

Quiet Christmastime Evening in Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Scooters in Ragusa Ibla, copyright Jann Huizenga

Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

Find me on Facebook.

My photography website.

Moonrise & the Cathedral

November 19, 2013

Somewhere deep in the heart of Sicily, there’s a moment of pure peace.

Moonrise in Sicily, copyright Jann Huizenga

 

Click to subscribe to BaroqueSicily.

Find me on Facebook.

My photography website.

Site Meter BlogItalia.it - La directory italiana dei blog Related Posts with Thumbnails